Point
Twill and much more
A
few years ago, while letting people have a go on one of my teaching looms, I was
asked how waffle weave was woven. I did not know and was surprised to find I
could do it on the loom I had with me. It was threaded up for point twill and
basket weave with a threading order of 2,1,2,3,4,3.
Whilst
the drafts shown below are suitable for the inexperienced weaver, there is a lot
of scope for experimentation. I have shown the drafts in tie up mode. As in the
lift plan mode used in my previous article the main section shows the appearance
of the weaving. Blue means that the weft is over the warp. The top section shows
the order of threading the shafts. The
box in the right hand corner shows the lifts that are used and if you are using
a floor loom the way that the pedals should be tied up. The dots in the box on
the right hand side show which combinations of shafts should be lifted. If you
are using a floor loom this will be the pedal that is used but it is straight
forward to refer up to the box if you are using a table loom. For more
information see Sue Dwyer’s article in Journal 220

Straight
twill gives zigzags Lift
sequence 1
and 2, 2 and 3, 3 and 4, 4 and 1)






Diamonds
are formed by reversing the twill Lift
sequence 1
and 2, 2 and 3, 3 and 4, 1 and 4, 3
and 4, 2 and 3, 1 and 2, 1 and 4 


Many
variations can be woven by changing direction after different number of
lifts Lift
sequence 1
and 2, 2 and 3, 3 and 4,1 and 4, 1 and 2, 1
and 4, 3 and 4, 2 and 3, 1 and 2, 1 and 4. 3 and 4 


1 and 2,2 and 3, 3 and 4, 2 and 3. 

Basket Weave
I first used the point twill threading when I wove a sampler to experiment with six fold basket weaves shown on page 48 of Marguerite Porter Davidson’s book. Some of her examples given involve plain weave lifts as well as twill.
Basket
weave sampler woven in double knitting wool
Looking
the sampler and the book at least 15 years later, I was surprised to find that
the book uses the threading 121343. Also
most of the lifts I used were variations of ones given in the book. I always
prefer experimenting with different lifts rather than following drafts when I am
weaving. Also whilst I have had no problem following her drafts for overshot
patterns, This particular page of Davidson’s book has very small photos of the
weaving and some of the drafts are difficult to follow.

The
draft for the section toward the bottom right of the picture adapted for
the 212343 threading. The
lifts are: 2 and 4 once, 3 and 4 three times, 1 and 3 once, 1 and 2,three
times 

Detail
of scarf woven at 24epi (9.5 epc) in cashmere silk blend (2/30nm) from
Uppingham Yarns 

The
draft used for the scarves. The
lift sequence is (1 and 3, 1 and 2) repeated three times, followed by (2
and 4, 3 and 4) three times
A
pick of plain weave was used between each pattern row because it looks
better if the sett has been chosen for plain weave rather than the closer
set used for twill weave 
I
also experimented and found a particularly pleasing draft , so I used it to
weave a scarf on the second half of the warp.

The
draft used for weaving the scarf.
The
front of the weaving looks very like the draft. The reverse side looks
very different to both the front and to the draft of the back shown below 



Lift
sequence 1
and 3, 1 and 2, 1 and 3,
2
and 4, 3 and 4, 2 and 4 
Detail of scarf woven in canvas
weave 
The
draft below is for Waffle weave. I
found the draft on page 48 of Practical
Modern Weaving. The
draft is also given on page 84 of Mastering
Weave Structures by Sharon Alderman

Lift
sequence 1;
2; 1 and 3; 1, 2 and 4; 1, 2 and 3; 1,
2 and 4; 1 and 3; 2; 

Marguerite
Porter Davison A Handweaver’s Pattern
Book 1944
Rosemary
Murray Practical
Modern Weaving Van Nostrand Reinhold 1975
Sharon
Alderman Mastering Weave Structures